I'd do some summer pruning later in the year and leave structural pruning till next winter. " If you prune them now you're likely to prune off this year's flowers and so lose the fruit. Feeding and mulching A sucker is a new stem growing up from the base of the main stem or root ball. Be sure to make the base of the hedge wider than the top - regardless of the height. If the leaves are yellowing and seed heads are forming, this is a good indication that garlic and shallots (and onions too if they are ready, although they may need a few more weeks yet) are usually ready to harvest. Unless you are training a particular new shoot, remove all this year’s growth back to a couple of pairs of leaves (usually about 2-4 inches) being careful not to remove any ripening fruits. If it is an informal hedge, curve the top over so it is rounded. This will encourage fruits to form. As the plant matures, more heavy pruning is required to help increase the longevity of the shrub. Early flowering perennials such as oriental poppies, delphiniums and hardy geraniums such as g. phaeum should all be cut back to the ground to encourage fresh regrowth and repeat flowering in a couple of months time. Blackcurrants are pruned in a similar way but fruit on 1 and 2 year old wood. Re-pot after 3-4 years in late winter or early spring. An open structure will allow sunlight and air to reach the interior of the plant and ripen fruit. Enjoy the summer fruits by July! Bear in mind that redcurrants and whitecurrants will grow too fast if overfed, so don’t spoil them. All currants are delicious to birds, so the number one job is to net them as soon as fruits start to ripen (unless of course you are growing plants in a fruit cage!) I have found that the optimum picking period for sweet peas is about 10 days. Then in early spring before growth starts, cut these main shoots back again to leave 2-4 buds, prune to an outward or upward facing bud. It is a time of plenty with meals eaten outside in the warm summer nights. Since berries like to grow on older stems, focus on pruning off the newer ones instead. Space plants at least 3 feet apart. Because the weather was so good in April and May, along with some blisteringly hot spells in June, everything in the garden is very forward and this means that as I write this on the first of the month the roses are going over already in the Cottage Garden but the sweet peas are still at their glorious best - as long as we keep picking them- otherwise they are increasingly inclined to go to seed. More on growing blackcurrants: The right time to prune a red currant bush is towards the end of winter, ideally during the months of February-March. But I am back and here we are, the year half over, the days drawing in and it is July. Pruning should be quite drastic First clear the center of the shrub, … Red currants are different to blackcurrants because they are spur-fruiting and so a permanent framework has to be built up. For maximum production, small fruit crops need to be pruned in late winter/early spring. ... Pruning currants easy to do: do not even cover up the wounds of garden pitch, although for very thick shoots and you can do it. Many gardeners dread fruit pruning for fear it is complicated but there are a couple of simple rules that make things easier. Pruning New Redcurrant Bushes. The currants are some of the most easily grown fruit bushes. Ideally it should not look as though you have done anything at all. Pruning red and white currants Initial Pruning – Remove any suckers from the base of the plant. Pruning Red and White Currants. The reason was simply that I was completing my latest book ‘MY GARDEN WORLD’ which will be published on September 17th and can be pre-ordered here from Waterstones, Hive and Amazon. Most currants and gooseberries are self-fruitful. When the seed has germinated prick out the seedlings into individual pots or plugs and grow them on until large enough to plant out. Many ramblers are best grown into a tree and these can be left unpruned apart from straggly, unkempt, growth. Red currants have a tart flavour. Once the cordon reaches 1.7m (5½ft) in height (the top of the supports), cut back the tip to five leaves from last year’s growth in the summer, and then back to one-three buds from last year’s growth in winter. The crop can be saved if the foliage is removed immediately the tell-tale chocolate coloured  circular areas of the leaves is noticed - they quickly spread and collapse. I now only grow first earlies because the risk of blight is so great. Renewal pruning involves removing one to five of the largest branches of the shrub down to the ground each spring to help … You will get more fruit if the plant is in full sun. Most currants will be producing fruit by now, so we thought it was a good time to take a quick look at harvesting and caring for your currant plants. Red and white currants will fruit at the base of shoots, known as ‘laterals’, that grow out from the main branches. Photography by Marsha Arnold; Sam Peat; Riverstreet Events and Jason Ingram, BBC Gardeners’ World Magazine Site by bwa.design. All the soft fruit - strawberries, raspberries, gooseberries, both red and black currants, have all loved this season and are giving us rich harvests. Cutting it back now also allows light and air onto the fruit that is ripening and stops your trees becoming too crowded with unproductive branches. The procedure can be performed in spring, summer, autumn and even in winter. But ventilation is very important to decrease the risk of blight and viruses and as the month progresses I start to remove the lower leaves so that air and light can move around the plants and ripening fruit in the lowest trusses. Between winter and summer, the bush will grow a lot, so you will need to prune it again. Too many nutrients is as damaging as too few as it causes rapid, lush growth - often at the expense of flowers or fruit - and which attracts extra fungal and predatory problems. Keeping the top part of the plant within bounds will reduce the work the roots need to do. Cut new shoots and stems down to 5 leaves in mid-summer. If training round a vertical support it is best to wind the stems in a spiral. For blackcurrants, remove all weak shoots at the base to leave 8-10 healthy, strong shoots on the plant. Marigolds can be planted with them as companion plants. As a rule, the bulk of the leaves at this point has already been dropped. This procedure activates the vital forces of the bush, which will give growth even before the end of the year. Side shoots have to be nipped off almost daily - a job that I try and do first thing in the morning when I open up the greenhouse because the plants are turgid and therefore brittle and the shoots snap off satisfyingly easily. Never be tempted to make the feed any stronger than the instructions dictate and if in any doubt reduce the strength. During a year allocate several periods for trimming currants. Plants tolerate a wide range of soil pH and some shade. One variety will set fruit on its own. How to Prune Red and White Currants. The extra warmth of July - and the wetness that comes with it - often leads to a flush of lush growth that plants cannot support. After gooseberries, red and white currants have been harvested - which they all will by the end of July - it is a good idea to give them a summer prune. This is what will produce the fruit during the next summer. 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